A ripe and rustic nose displays plenty of earth and humus influences on the combination of both red and dark berry fruit. The delicious, vibrant and nicely detailed flavors also flash a touch of rusticity on the lightly structured finale. To enjoy on the younger side.
Opening in the glass with notes of red berries, cloves and petals, Dureuil's 2018 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain is medium-bodied, racy and succulent, its mouthwateringly tangy core of fruit framed by melting tannins. While it will drink well young, it's given a serious élevage in barrel and can age, too. Vincent Dureuil and his wife Céline took over the family estate in 1994, and today this 20-hectare domaine ranks—along with Domaine Bruno Lorenzon in Mercurey—as the finest winery in the Côte Chalonnaise. Organic farming, cultivated soils and virtuosic winemaking combine to striking effect, yielding textural but incisive whites and perfumed, supple reds that number among my favorite wines in Burgundy. And if this address is Rully's reference point, that doesn't detract from what Dureuil achieves in Puligny-Montrachet and Nuits-Saint-Georges, where he also produces benchmark examples. Last year, I wrote that Vincent's 2017s represented his finest portfolio to date (or at least in my tasting experience), and 2018 is a very worthy successor: the whites are touch more gourmand and textural in personality and will likely drink at their peak younger, while the reds are deeper pitched and more concentrated than their 2017 counterparts. In any case, the result is an embarrassment of riches. Plenty will find a place in my own cellar, and I couldn't recommend them to readers more warmly than that. (WK)
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