There are 18 barrels of the 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis Trilogie, and it's the usual blend of 60% Chenevery, 30% Porroux and 15% Clos Solon. Wafting from the glass with aromas of cherries, cassis, smoked meats, candied peel and cinnamon, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered core, powdery tannins and a long, sapid finish. Yields were low—around 30 hectoliters per hectare—explained by the old vines, some of which are trained in cordon. Laurent Lignier has once again produced a fine vintage for both his domaine holdings and négociant sources—the latter, amounting to some 3.5 hectares of vines, now clearly distinguished in our reviews. As readers will know, winemaking is pretty classical at this address, with a short cold maceration, two to three weeks' maceration with one pigéage and one rémontage per day, and maturation in barrels, some third of which are new—if possible, without racking—for fully 22 months. Lignier began picking on September 4 and finished eight days later, reporting finished alcohols which, with only a couple of exceptions, are below 14%. The two pieces of news are the Lignier is now certified organic since May 2019, and that he is producing a new cuvée of Clos de la Roche, the story of which is told in the accompanying tasting notes. (WK)
The 2018 Trilogie villages is the more refined example of the two AC botltings from Morey St. Denis this year. The bouquet is nicely black fruity, wafting from the glass in a mix of black cherries, plums, woodsmoke, just a touch of beetroot, a fine base of soil and pigeon. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and ripely tannic, with a good core of fruit, fine focus and grip and a long, nascently complex and very well-balanced finish. This is a lovely AC. (Drink between 2026-2055)
There is a top note of menthol to the moderately sauvage-inflected dark currant, plum and black raspberry aromas. The sleek, focused and vibrant medium-bodied flavors possess a similar saline nuance on the bright and lingering finish that possesses a hint of acid tang.
The 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis "Trilogie" comes from three lieux-dits, 60% from Chenevery (also from Purroux and Clos Solon). It has a quite a high-toned bouquet of black cherries and cassis fruit that just needs a little more delineation. The palate is better, offering sappy red fruit, fine acidity and orange peel and touches of marmalade on the finish. Fine, but I would drink this over the next decade, no longer. (NM)
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