The 2018 Chablis Les Vaudevey 1er Cru is a gorgeous, complex wine. Dried flowers, slate and earthy tones give the 2018 tons of aromatic nuance to match its mid-weight personality. The Vaudevey is an especially somber Chablis marked by strong mineral/soil inflections. It is also tightly wound today and in need of time to be at its best. (AG)
Aromatic hints of ripe greengage and Mirabelle are subtle on the nose of this wine. The palate adds a creamy languor to these fruity notions, endowing them with gentle, pithy texture and letting them flow in their generous ripeness, with more rich pear on the dry finish
Creamy and rich up front, saturated with ripe white peach flavors, this is gentle, with summery notes of oranges and cottonwood. There’s energy and structure under all that richness, grounding the wine for bottle age.
This too is unmistakably Chablis with a similar nose that is just a bit more layered. There is better mid-palate density to the rounded and delicious medium weight flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the dry, focused and attractively dry if somewhat rustic finale. I like the character and this should reward a few years of keeping.*Burghound Outstanding!*
Displaying aromas of orchard fruit and peach, the 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaudevey is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a generous, giving personality. It's still early to assess it, but it would appear to be a charming, open-knit rendition of this cuvée. This was an enjoyable tasting with the dynamic Grégory Viennois, who today, as technical director, presides over Laroche's fully 90 hectares. As I wrote last year, Viennois is a Chapoutier and Derenoncourt alumnus, and he is working toward more sustainable farming and moderated yields in the vineyards, as well as long pressing in the cuverie in pursuit of structuring dry extract. Recently used oak is more subtly employed, and Laroche's early-2000s transition to screwcap closures has been abandoned. The 2017 vintage was showing well, largely realizing the promise it showed during élevage, and a first look at the 2018 vintage revealed more than a few promising cuvées, Viennois's work at the press evident in chalky back-end structure, which will be interesting to follow throughout élevage. (WK)
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