Tasted at The Sampler in South Kensington. This has a pure cedar-dominated bouquet with very fine natural freshness and an almost Pauillac-like austerity. Perhaps just a little muffled, but good vigour. The palate is quite tart on the entry, dusty tannins with piquant cherry fruit, leading to a dry tobacco-tinged finish that suggests this is just past its prime. But it has a nonchalance that is still attractive. Tasted December 2010. (NM)
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