This is about as alluring as it gets aromatically, with singed alder, juniper, bay and charcoal notes out front, hinting at power but turning beguiling as they flow into the core of steeped red currant, dried currant and black tea. The charcoal note makes an encore, with a lovely twinge of old-school character holding the finish. Always a great debate vis-à-vis the '90, but the slightly darker profile here gives this wine a lovely bit of extra drama. (JM, Web Only-2014)
The Chateau Margaux ’89 has a rather curmudgeonly nose at first, initially disjointed but melding together with scents of blackberry, hawthorn and clay/wet cement. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, although this is not a complex Margaux. It has pert acidity and fine minerality, although it does not have the length or depth of Cos d’Estournel ’89 tasted alongside. The finish is a little foursquare and dominated by cedar and tobacco flavours that continue to lend it a Pauillac-like personality. (NM)
Very deep glowing dark ruby with lots of maturity at the rim. Not especially sweet and ripe on the nose – more minerals and sweetness. Lovely richness yet complete and and heady on the palate. Sweet round yet not earthy and velvety – still with this quite extraordinary freshness and vitality. Really remarkable for this vintage! So flattering and long and complete. (JR) 19/20
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