Dark chocolate, with meat, fresh mushroom and a light espresso undertone. Full-bodied, with ultrarefined tannins and a meaty, berry, earth and spice undertone, even game. Rich and generous. What a surprise. Much better than I remember. (JS, Web-2009)
The 1988 Haut Bailly, which Véronique Sanders told me was the first year that there was a green harvest, was picked from 27 September until 21 October. Apparently they achieved rich tannins that were unprecedented. At thirty years old it has a pretty, minty, slightly rustic bouquet that has held up well. There is certainly more presence here than a lot of other 1988s. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rustic tannins, but the acidity is nicely judged with tarry black fruit on the sustained finish. This is worth seeking out. Tasted at the château. (NM)
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