Graham is another great port house, producing one of the deepest-colored and sweetest styles of vintage port. Along with Taylor and Fonseca, Graham has probably been the most consistent producer of great port in the post- World War II era. Their tawnys are quite good rather than exceptional, but their vintage ports are truly sublime and sumptuous. Graham is the undisputed star and kingpin of the 1985 vintage ports. Yes, it is made in a sweeter style than the other ports, but it is a fabulous wine because of a dazzling level of black-cherry fruit, an enormous structure, and staggering depth, dimension, and length. It is forward, as are all 1985s, and I would speculate that this port will be approaching maturity by 1992-93 and will keep 15-20 years thereafter.
What more could one want in a young vintage Port? It has great elegance and great power. Brilliant deep ruby-purple, with boysenberry and licorice aromas, full-bodied, very fleshy, with a firm backbone of tannins.
Very deeply coloured. Black core. Rich dark damsons, touch of smoky baked dark fruit and meatiness. Still a touch of violets. Very dark savoury fruit, like dark toffee but with a strong pepper on the palate. Dense but powder-fine tannins and they lighten beautifully on the finish. Lovely dry finish and paper soft after all that depth and dark ripe fruit.
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