Chapoutier's Ermitage l'Ermite possesses a transparent character that almost allows the taster to see through the wine's multiple levels. What stands out is the liqueur of granite liquid minerality. The elegant 1998 Ermitage l'Ermite rouge is light, but exquisitely balanced, with subtle notes of smoke and black currants. The flavors unfold gently and gracefully, with nothing overstated. The power is restrained, the tannin is well-integrated, and the acidity is barely noticeable. However, the wine is fresh and beautifully delineated. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040.
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