Dark ruby. Loads of blackberry, vanilla and milk chocolate on the nose. Turns to licorice and flowers. Full-bodied, with a subtle tannin structure and fresh and focused fruit. Balanced and pretty wine. Just starting to open. (JS, Web Only—2007)
The 1997 Gaja Sperss is another wine that is showing beautifully, although this bottle isn’t as profound as others have been. Layers of dark, mineral-inflected Serralunga fruit flow across the palate as the 1997 struts its stuff. (AG)
Saturated deep ruby. Brooding, rather withdrawn aromas of blackberry, bitter chocolate, espresso and menthol. Dense and huge yet almost magically elegant, thanks to superb vinosity and tannic spine. This monumental wine boasts extraordinary opulence for a Barolo from Serralunga yet gives no impression of excess weight. Great lingering, vibrant finish. (ST)
A virtually perfect effort is the 1997 Sperss (30,000 bottles), which represents the essence of truffles, earth, and black cherries in its striking aromatics and multidimensional, opulent, full-bodied palate. The acidity seems low because of the huge glycerin levels and prodigious concentration of fruit, but I suspect it is normal in the scheme of oenological measurement. This profound wine requires 3-4 years of cellaring, and should age well for 30-35 years. (RP)
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