Potentially perfect, the 1999 Petite-Syrah Hayne Vineyard (475 cases, 15.2% alcohol) is a 50-year wine. If it is showing any age after a decade of cellaring, I will be as surprised as its producers. An opaque black/blue color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of blackberry and creme de cassis blended with spices, minerals, and earth. Frightfully tannic, with unreal concentration, texture, and length, this behemoth is one of the most concentrated wines I have ever tasted. (RP)
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