Rugged and juicy at the same time, with hickory-smoked game, dried blood orange, briar, black currant, bittersweet cocoa and coffee flavors. This offers the classic profile of Châteauneuf, with complexity and length bred by world-class terroir. (JM)
In complete contrast to the sweet fruited, easy drinking 1999 Clos des Papes was the masculine and slightly austere 1995 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau. This is still young and fresh with a blackberry, leather, licorice, river rock and hot tar scented bouquet and a concentrated, medium bodied palate. Really gorgeous with pure flavors, solid structure and a long finish, this just started to open up on the second day.
The 1995 Vieux Telegraphe is excellent, and is everything I expected to find with this sampling of 1995s. The bouquet is deep and complex, offering up notes of black raspberry, coffee, herb tones, woodsmoke, venison and ground pepper. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and well-balanced, with lovely pepperiness and game tones, excellent focus and delineation, and a long, complex and ripely tannic finish of quite impressive acidity. This is good juice that is just now beginning to drink really well, but is clearly still on its way up.
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